I didn't get a new phone (but I got something else)

I have a cheesy little phone. It's a cheap Nokia that I bought when my better phone died. I've never had a really great phone, and I have been so excited to upgrade to an Android phone. Apps! Twitter! Email! I've literally been counting down the days to April 29, the day a customer service rep from my phone carrier told me I'd be eligible to upgrade.

I'd even found the exact phone I wanted, and it's offered for a significant discount at Costco. So this morning I called my carrier just to make sure everything would go smoothly for the upgrade.

And I was told I'm actually not eligible for upgrade until May 15.

Sixteen more days...not a big deal, right? Wrong. I've been so excited--I almost felt like someone had told me on December 25 that Christmas was being postponed.

I had a phone conversation with a customer service rep, getting more and more frustrated as we talked. I then talked to a manager, who told me if I went to Costco they might be able to manually upgrade me early--but it was iffy. So the kids and I headed that direction.

By that time, my mood was awful. I hadn't been as polite as I usually am on the phone; I'd gotten so frustrated that my blood pressure had probably doubled; and I wasn't even sure if I'd be able to enjoy the new phone if I was able to get it.

And then a conversation I had with The Engineer just a few days ago came back to me.

"I understand why you're frustrated," I told him when the new bike he purchased was having issues, "but it doesn't seem like it's worth it to let it ruin your day!"

And there I was, letting my day be ruined by stress over a cell phone.

So, I calmed down. Let me rephrase that. I chose to calm down. As I spoke to the guys at Costco, and then called customer service a couple more times, I was calm. I had a good time with the kids. And when it became clear that Costco is definitely the best place to get my phone (and that there just isn't any good way to do that early), I was okay.

I didn't get a new phone. But I did get a new attitude. And it's really nice to be reminded that in a world where most things are out of my control, my reactions are one thing I can control.

Even with a crummy phone...it's still a good day.

P.S. By the way, I'm not going to continue trying to change the situation. What I'm up against are computer programs that are more powerful than human customer service...and that's just not a battle I want to fight, when I can just relax for 16 more days instead.

Eyeballs

"Mommy," Chickie said today, "did you know that when you die, you don't have eyeballs?"

"Well," I replied, "When you die, your eyeballs decay, just like the rest of you."

"What happens to your body when it decays?"

This led to a conversation about how dead bodies break down into other things, and sometimes get eaten by bugs or by other animals. And then it led to a discussion of why humans are considered animals and how we're similar to, and different from, other animals. ("We're animals that wear shoes!" Zoodle contributed.)

It also led to me thinking, Do most parents of five-year-olds have these conversations?

Chickie has such a fascination with biology and anatomy. She likes talking about circulation and digestion. She is interested in how babies are made and born. She thinks it's so interesting that humans and other animals feed their babies milk.

I'm trying not to put labels on her that she'll have trouble breaking away from, but just between me and you, I wouldn't be at all surprised if she's a doctor or scientist in 20 years or so.

And as difficult as it can be to respond to incessant questions, many of which I don't have the answers to...as challenging as it can be to find age-appropriate yet honest ways to answer sensitive questions about the human body...I just love seeing this side of her. Kids show their unique temperaments and interests so early. I'm so excited to see how this will develop as she grows older!

But in the meantime, I'm going to try not to think too hard about decaying eyeballs.

I did a book review! (Woo hoo!)

Recently BlogHer (who hosts the ads on my blogs) sent me an email. They were offering a free book and a bit of compensation for bloggers who wanted to read and review the book. Wait a minute...I like to read and write anyway, and I was being offered money to do both of those things? With fingers trembling from anticipation (okay, maybe that's overstating it a bit), I clicked on the link and got my name on the list before it filled up.

When the book, Caleb's Crossing by Geraldine Brooks, came in the mail, I saw this text on the bottom of the cover:

"ADVANCE UNCORRECTED PROOFS --NOT FOR SALE"

And inside there were more fun things like "Dedication to come" and "UNREVISED AND UNPUBLISHED PROOFS. CONFIDENTIAL." I will readily admit, I geeked out seeing all this. I've certainly never gotten an advance proof of a book before, and somehow it seemed so much cooler than a regular book. Then BlogHer asked us to be hush-hush about the reviews, so I felt even more like a superhero-private eye-book reviewer!

Caleb's Crossing is being released May 3. You can pre-order it on Amazon here, or for the Kindle here.

And I'd love it if you'd read my review on BlogHer. (I'd love it even more if you'd give me some comment love while you're there!) I'm currently reading another book for the program--I'm so excited to be part of it!

I have failed. (And that's okay.)

I've posted in the past about my house cleaning strategy. But it's time to truly come clean.

I've failed.

Sure, sometimes I clean. And sometimes I declutter. But in general I don't keep up with the cleaning and the decluttering and the maintenance (touching up wall paint, for instance) nearly as well as I feel I "should." I end up anxious. I feel guilty for not doing my stay-at-home-mom job as well as I should. I get so overwhelmed that I don't know where to start, so I find other things to do instead.

Recently, The Engineer suggested that we get a house cleaner a couple of times a month. While part of me still felt guilty (This means I'm not doing a good job!!), the rest of me quickly warmed up to the idea. It took some time to find someone, but this Monday I connected with someone I think I'm really going to like. She and her husband will be coming over next Monday to meet me, and if all goes well, they'll do their first clean on Friday.

After talking to her Monday, something clicked in my head. It was like a huge pressure had been taken off me, and with the overwhelmed feeling gone, I was suddenly motivated.

Knowing I don't have to take care of the bathrooms and the floors and the dusting, this week I've taken on one manageable decluttering project at a time. My bedside table. The rest of our bedroom. A "magic bin" that had been sitting around for over a week. The artwork/magnet/junk-covered refrigerator. I still have a lot of areas to declutter, but it feels doable now.

And I've realized, it's okay that I've failed in some "great house cleaner" ideal I had set up in my mind. I put my time into other things, things I enjoy, like real estate and blogging and crocheting. And I bring in income in all those ways. So it's okay, since we can afford it, to pay someone to do the scrubbing and cleaning that I don't like to do.

Being a success in some areas requires letting myself be a failure in others.

What a relief to realize that!

Crochet Pattern: Slouchy Faux Cable Hat (With or Without Brim)

**This entire tutorial is available by PDF. It's definitely easier to print that way, and probably easier to view on the screen that way too. Please download it here, or email me at cbethcrochet@gmail.com, and I'll send it to you.**

Pattern also on Ravelry.com

Correction made in evening of 4/10/11. Round 23 (in hat band) has been corrected.
Corrections made on 7/24/13. One spelling error, and changed "left to right" to "right to left" when describing how to work the first row of the brim.

***

I'm so excited to share this pattern! I've had more orders for this hat than any other that I've made, so I'm hoping a lot of other crocheters will enjoy making it too!

Like the hat, but you don't know a crochet pattern from a physics formula? No worries--I sell these hats and other styles! Feel free to check out various ones I've made on the C. Beth Crochet Facebook Page. You can email me at cbethcrochet@gmail.com if you're interested in placing a custom order.

This hat can be made with a brim...


...or without!


I have included lots of photos in the tutorial below. Once you make your second or third hat in this pattern (and I hope you like it enough to make a few!), you might want to skip to the bottom of this post. I have the pattern written there in simple terms without all the extra how-to stuff.

This is a pattern for crocheters of at least intermediate level. You need to know the American crochet terms/abbreviations. Google and YouTube are great resources for finding instructions for stitches you aren't comfortable with!

This pattern looks really long...and honestly, it's not a quick hat to make. But just take it one step at a time. It's fun to see it come together!

Ready to start?

Slouchy Ribbed Faux Cable Hat
With or Without Brim
Pattern by C. Beth
Use worsted weight (4) or bulky (5) yarn, approximately 4-5 ounces. Solid color recommended.

You may use this pattern to make hats to sell, as long as you're not mass-producing the hats. You may not sell the pattern itself or claim the design as your own. If you redistribute the pattern, please do so by referring people to this blog post or to the Ravelry.com link, or by distributing a printout with the pattern and a URL of this blog post. Thanks!

PART ONE: HAT BODY

I use an I (5.5 mm) hook.

The first 9 rounds are first given as a normal written pattern, and below that I've posted a chart showing those rounds. The chart helps me to visually keep track of what stitches I should be doing. It may help you too--but it's not written the way a normal crochet chart would be, so if it confuses you, just ignore it!

ROUND 1: Start with a Magic Adjustable Ring (great tutorial here.) CH-3 into ring (counts as DC), then 11 DC into ring. (12 stitches.) Join at top of CH-3.

For Round 2 through Round 21, start each round with a CH-2. This counts as a DC, and I'm going to call it a DC to make the pattern easier to read.

ROUND 2: 2 DC in each st. (24 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 3: 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st. Repeat around. (36 stitches.) Join.

Now in Round 4 we will be introducing FPDC (Front Post Double Crochet) stitches. The FPDC stitches create the ribbing in the body of the hat.

ROUND 4: DC in first st, FPDC in next st, increase by working both DC & FPDC in next st. Repeat this group of 4 stitches all the way around. (48 stitches.) Join.

This photo shows the first few stitches of Round 4.

For Rounds 5-21, each FPDC stitch should be around an FPDC stitch from the previous round to create the ribbing.

ROUND 5: Work 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 9 stitches all the way around. (54 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 6: DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 10 stitches, all the way around. (60 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 7: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 11 stitches, all the way around. (66 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 8: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC. Repeat this group of 12 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 9: DC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 3 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

CHART SHOWING ROUNDS 1-9. Click to enlarge:


ROUNDS 10 through 21: Repeat Row 9.

At this point your hat should look something like this:

PART TWO: HAT BAND

For a "one size fits most women" hat, use a J (6 mm) hook (or 1 size larger than body hook.) For a large size women's hat, use a K (6.5 mm) hook (or 2 sizes larger than body hook.) For a small size women's hat, use an I (5.5 mm) hook (or same size as body hook.)

ROUND 22: CH-1 (counts as HDC.) HDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 23: CH-1 (Counts as BPHDC, Back Post Half Double Crochet.) Then 1 FPHDC (Front Post Half Double Crochet). Then alternate BPHDC/FPHDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 24 through 26: Repeat Round 23.

Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.

PART THREE: FAUX CABLE

I used an I (5.5 mm) hook.

The "cable" effect that goes up the body of the hat is not a true cable. It's just a pattern of stitches that are worked over the regular hat body. To make the photos more clear, I've used a contrasting color of yarn. However, you'll use the same yarn color as you used for the body of the hat. This is the end result we're working toward:



From here on out, I'll refer to "ribs." These are the lines of FPDC stitches that make the hat ribbed.

The first half of each faux cable is stitched starting at the bottom of the hat, going toward the crown, on one rib ("Rib #1".) Then a rib is skipped ("Rib #2"), and the second half of the faux cable is stitched down the next rib ("Rib #3").

Three ribs...

...and the same ribs, with labels.

Okay, let's start the first faux cable! Find a rib to start with (Rib #1.) It helps to fold the hat right at that rib, with the rib at the "peak" of the fold. (See next photo.)

Because the FPDC stitches are elevated, it makes it easy to work the faux cable stitches into them. Instead of putting your hook through loops at the top of the previous round of stitching, as you usually do, you'll be putting your hook under the whole FPDC stitch. Work one stitch of the faux cable around one FPDC stitch.

First, join your yarn at the very bottom of the hat body, in the last FPDC stitch.

Pull the yarn through, and ch-3. This counts as a TC.

After the CH-3, working up Rib #1, complete the following stitches:
DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (19 stitches including CH-3.)
This creates a scalloped effect.

The first few stitches of this half of the faux cable:


The first half of the faux cable:


When you finish the last DC of the first half of the faux cable, CH-2. This counts as the first DC of the second half of the faux cable.

Now, we're going to make our way over to Rib #3 for the second half of the faux cable.

Slip stitch into Rib 3. Make sure you're slip stitching directly across from where you worked the last stitch in Rib 1. In other words, work into the same round of the hat body.

We're ready to do the rest of the faux cable. Turn the hat around so that you can work into Rib 3.

Now that you've turned the hat around, your hook is at the "bottom" of the CH-2, and it should be at the top before you do the next stitch. Slip stitch into both chain stitches that you just completed--working your way to the top of the chain. (By the way, I've made the hat several times without doing this, and it looks fine. So if this is confusing to you, just skip this step.)

You're going to work the same stitches as in the first half of the faux cable, but in opposite order. Each time you hit a "peak" of the scalloped pattern, you'll need to slip stitch into the same "peak" on the other half of the faux cable before continuing on. So...

Once you've slip stitched into each chain of the CH-2 (which counts as a DC), complete these stitches:
HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (then slip stitch into DC on first half of faux cable), HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into TC on first half of faux cable), DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into last FPDC of Rib #2, and slip stitch into top of CH-3 from first half of faux cable.)

Some photos to show you what the heck all this looks like:

Slip stitch into a DC on the first half of the faux cable:


Slip stitch into Rib #2:


Slip stitch into top of CH-3 from first half of faux cable:


Completed faux cable...but yours will be much more subtle since you will use the same color of yarn as the body of the hat:

Make sense? Now that your first faux cable is done, you can cut the yarn, pull it through, and work the ends in.

There are 24 ribs around the hat. Each faux cable uses three ribs. I do four faux cables. If you want to do four, skip three ribs entirely between each faux cable.

If you prefer to do six faux cables, just skip one rib between each faux cable.

Once your faux cables are done, you've got a very cute hat!

You can stop here, or add a brim.

PART FOUR: OPTIONAL BRIM

I use an I (5.5 mm) hook.

Use two strands of yarn for brim. If you are using bulky-weight yarn, this is optional, but the brim will hold its form better with two strands.

Once again, to make the photos more clear, I've used a contrasting color of yarn. However, you'll use the same yarn color as you used for the body of the hat. I also only used one strand of yarn for the photos.

First, figure out where you want the front/center of your hat to be. I use the middle of one of the cables as my front/center. You may prefer to use a point halfway between two of the cables.

The first row of the hat will be 17 HDC stitches. I like to use stitch markers on either side of where these stitches will go, so I don't have to count repeatedly as I'm working. (If you don't have stitch markers, get some--they're cheap! Mine are huge, but smaller ones are available. Unlike most safety pins, they don't have a loop opposite of the clasp--those little loops can get snagged in your yarn.)

With the hat upside down (as in the photo), you'll work from right to left. You'll be working around the posts of the stitches in the second to the last row of the hat band.

Join your yarn to the hat band. Leave a tail a few inches longer than usual--you'll need it later.

Once the yarn is joined...

Row 1: CH-2 (Counts as HDC.) FPHDC (Front Post Half Double Crochet) into next 16 stitches of hat band. Slip stitch around the post of the next stitch of hat band. (17 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 2: First do a FPHDC into band right next to the slip stitch you just did. This counts as the first stitch of Row 2.

Now you can turn and continue Row 2. You'll be working into Row 1. Don't work into the slip stitch at the end of Row 1, though. Start working in the last FPHDC of Row 1. (Follow this same pattern for subsequent rows too--don't work into the slip stitch!)

Work these stitches: 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 13 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 1. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (22 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 3: First do a FPHDC right next to the slip stitch you just did. Then turn. Work into Row 2 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 18 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 2. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (27 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 4: First do a FPHDC right next to the slip stitch you just did. Then turn. Work into Row 3 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 21 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 3. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (34 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 5: First do a FPHDC right next to the slip stitch you just did. Then turn. Work into Row 4 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 28 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 4. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (41 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Your brim should look like this, except it'll be the same color as your hat, and it'll be thicker since you'll use two strands of yarn.



Cut the yarn, pull it through, and work in the end. Before working in the extra yarn from where you started the brim, you may want to use a bit of it to tack the edge (the beginning of Row 5) to the hat band. That way it will match the other side better.

Congratulations! You're done!

When you've become an expert at the techniques in this hat, this short(er) version of the pattern will be easier to read:

Slouchy Ribbed Faux Cable Hat
With or Without Brim
Pattern by C. Beth
Use worsted weight (4) or bulky (5) yarn, approximately 4-5 ounces. Solid color recommended.

You may use this pattern to make hats to sell, as long as you're not mass-producing the hats. You may not sell the pattern itself or claim the design as your own. If you redistribute the pattern, please do so by referring people to this blog post or to the Ravelry.com link, or by distributing a printout with the pattern and a URL of this blog post. Thanks!

PART ONE: HAT BODY

I (5.5 mm) hook.

ROUND 1: Start with a Magic Adjustable Ring. CH-3 into ring (counts as DC), then 11 DC into ring. (12 stitches.) Join at top of CH-3.

For Round 2 through Round 21, start each round with a CH-2. This counts as a DC, and I'm going to call it a DC.

ROUND 2: 2 DC in each st. (24 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 3: 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st. Repeat around. (36 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 4: DC in first st, FPDC in next st, increase by working both DC & FPDC in next st. Repeat this group of 4 stitches all the way around. (48 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 5: Work 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 9 stitches all the way around. (54 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 6: DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 10 stitches, all the way around. (60 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 7: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 11 stitches, all the way around. (66 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 8: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC. Repeat this group of 12 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 9: DC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 3 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUNDS 10 through 21: Repeat Row 9.

PART TWO: HAT BAND

For a "one size fits most women" hat, use a J (6 mm) hook. For a large size women's hat, use a K (6.5 mm) hook. For a small size women's hat, use an I (5.5 mm) hook.

ROUND 22: CH-1 (counts as HDC.) HDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 23: CH-1 (Counts as BPHDC, Back Post Half Double Crochet.) Then 1 FPHDC (Front Post Half Double Crochet). Then alternate BPHDC/FPHDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 24 through 26: Repeat Round 23.

Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.

PART THREE: FAUX CABLE

I (5.5 mm) hook.

Choose three ribs for your first faux cable.

Join yarn in the last FPDC stitch of Rib #1. Ch-3. This counts as a TC.

After the CH-3, working up Rib #1, complete the following stitches (one stitch in each FPDC of rib):
DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (19 stitches including CH-3.)

CH-2. This counts as the first DC of the second half of the faux cable.

Slip stitch into Rib 3 (2 Ribs above Rib 1), into the same round of the hat body as the DC you just did in Rib 1.

Turn hat.

Slip stitch into both chain stitches that you just completed--working your way to the top of the chain. Still counts as a DC. Working down Rib #3, complete the following stitches (one stitch in each FPDC of rib):

HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (then slip stitch into DC on first half of faux cable), HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into TC on first half of faux cable), DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into last FPDC of Rib #2, and slip stitch into top of CH-3 from first half of faux cable.)

Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.

Complete the rest of the faux cables. To do four faux cables: Skip three ribs between each faux cable. To do six faux cables, skip one rib between each faux cable.

PART FOUR: OPTIONAL BRIM

I (5.5 mm) hook.

Use two strands of yarn for brim. If you are using bulky-weight yarn, this is optional, but the brim will hold its form better with two strands.

Use stitch markers on hat band to mark where first 17 stitches of brim will be. Holding hat upside down, you will work from right to left in the second to last row of the hat band.

Join your yarn to the hat band. Leave a tail a few inches longer than usual.

Row 1: CH-2 (Counts as HDC.) FPHDC into next 16 stitches of hat band. Slip stitch around the post of the next stitch of hat band. (17 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn.

Row 2: FPHDC into band next to the slip stitch you just did. This counts as the first stitch of Row 2. Turn. Work these stitches into Row 1 (SKIPPING slip stitch, here and throughout): 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 13 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (22 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Row 3: FPHDC next to slip stitch. Turn. Work into Row 2 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 18 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 2. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (27 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Row 4: FPHDC next to slip stitch. Turn. Work into Row 3 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 21 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 3. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (34 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Row 5: First do a FPHDC next to slip stitch. Turn. Work into Row 4 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 28 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 4. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (41 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Cut the yarn, pull it through, and work in the end. Before working in the extra yarn from where you started the brim, you may want to use a bit of it to tack the edge (the beginning of Row 5) to the hat band.

Blue Bell Fun Run (Race Report)

We got up very early this morning to drive out of town for a race. It was sponsored by Blue Bell Ice Cream and the ads promised as much ice cream as we could eat after the race (for runners and spectators.) Works for me! So while it was only me and Chickie running this time, we made it a family event.


Aaaah....now that's a beautiful truck.

First was Chickie's 1-mile race. We're actually wondering if it was a bit shorter than a mile based on the times kids were achieving...but even if it was shorter, I'm still impressed with Chickie's endurance. She ran--and often ran fast--with only one short walk break. She finished in 10:01!


Chickie, Mommy, and some random kid, about to finish the 1-miler


Chickie with her cool participant medal, which she's still wearing as I write this, over five hours later

Later it was my turn to run a 5K. I ran it in 29:06, which is a PR (Personal Record) for me, by 3 seconds. But boy was it a hard way to get a PR. I started out way too fast and couldn't even stick with my normal 4 minute run/1 minute walk pattern. I ended up taking extra walk breaks in the last half. I'm still happy with the time--a PR is a PR!--but I look forward to pacing myself better next time so I don't feel so spent halfway through!


Me, about to finish. I actually really like this photo. I don't have big muscles, but I love how I can see them flexing in my right calf! They may not be big, but they're doing their job!

After my race, we enjoyed frozen treats! Yum, yum, yum.





For those of you who happen to live in my general vicinity (most of you know who you are), this is a fun family event--a great way to create memories. There is also a 10K and a four-person 10K relay. A lot of the 5K participants were walkers; some brought their dogs or strollers. (Because of all the walkers, I was in the top 10% of my age group. I may never again rank that high again.... I'll take it!)

I doubt we'll want to make the drive every year, but we may someday do this race again...and maybe next time some friends will join us!

You guys rock!

Well, my fundraising goal for Relay For Life has been met! You guys all ROCK. Thank you!!

If you were planning on donating and didn't get around to it, I have a suggestion. My wonderful friend Ann, who is a cancer survivor, is on the same team as me. If you donate on her page, it'll go for the same great cause (American Cancer Society) and toward our team, but you'll also be helping a very deserving person to meet her goal.

Ann, who has a son a little younger than Chickie, found out she had cancer in her 30s when she and her husband were planning for child #2. But after the diagnosis, she immediately had surgery that left her unable to be pregnant again. However, her husband's cousin volunteered to "loan them her womb." Ann's daughter is now over a year old. Ann and her husband are genetically the parents, but the baby grew in someone else's womb. And Ann has remained cancer-free for the last few years. Pretty cool, huh?

If you'd like to honor Ann--a true survivor and overcomer--just email me at cbethblog@gmail.com. I'll send you a link to her Relay For Life page. Thanks!

You can read my original post about Relay For Life here.

Yay meat! (Irish Beef Pot Pie recipe)

I found a yummy-sounding recipe for Irish Beef Pie on SnoWhite's blog Finding Joy in My Kitchen. The Engineer is a meat and potatoes-type of guy, and I figured he'd like it. It was a hit!

I altered the recipe, so here's my version of this delicious comfort food.

Irish Beef Pot Pie

Ingredients:
1 double pie crust, uncooked (I use Pillsbury)
2 Tbsp olive oil
1/4 head green cabbage, finely sliced or shredded
1 small to medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced; or 2 tsp jarred minced garlic
3 medium potatoes, chopped into small chunks
1 lb beef stew meat, cut into small pieces
1 cup beef broth
1 cup red wine
1/4 cup tomato paste
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp McCormick Montreal Steak seasoning

Instructions:

Heat olive oil over medium heat in LARGE skillet, Dutch oven, or pot. Line pie plate with pie crust.

When oil is hot, add cabbage, onion, garlic, and potatoes. Saute, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.

This is probably a good time to preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Add beef, broth, and wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until beef is mostly cooked.

Add tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, and Montreal Steak seasoning. Stir well until tomato paste is dissolved. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the potatoes are cooked (but not too soft.)

Carefully place the mixture in the lined pie plate. Cover the pie with the other half of the pie crust. Trim edges, crimp, and use a knife or scissors to vent the top in whatever creative design you prefer.

Cook for 25 minutes or until top is lightly browned. Let the pie sit for 10-20 minutes before cutting.

I celebrated this meaty dish (and my carnivorous husband) in the pie's venting.


Enjoy!

This is tasty. But really...chunks of meat & taters aren't very pretty!