Saturday, April 9, 2011

Crochet Pattern: Slouchy Faux Cable Hat (With or Without Brim)

**This entire tutorial is available by PDF. It's definitely easier to print that way, and probably easier to view on the screen that way too. Please download it here, or email me at cbethcrochet@gmail.com, and I'll send it to you.**

Pattern also on Ravelry.com

Correction made in evening of 4/10/11. Round 23 (in hat band) has been corrected.
Corrections made on 7/24/13. One spelling error, and changed "left to right" to "right to left" when describing how to work the first row of the brim.

***

I'm so excited to share this pattern! I've had more orders for this hat than any other that I've made, so I'm hoping a lot of other crocheters will enjoy making it too!

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Like the hat, but you don't know a crochet pattern from a physics formula? No worries--I sell these hats and other styles! Feel free to check out various ones I've made on the C. Beth Crochet Facebook Page. You can email me at cbethcrochet@gmail.com if you're interested in placing a custom order.

This hat can be made with a brim...
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...or without!
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I have included lots of photos in the tutorial below. Once you make your second or third hat in this pattern (and I hope you like it enough to make a few!), you might want to skip to the bottom of this post. I have the pattern written there in simple terms without all the extra how-to stuff.

This is a pattern for crocheters of at least intermediate level. You need to know the American crochet terms/abbreviations. Google and YouTube are great resources for finding instructions for stitches you aren't comfortable with!

This pattern looks really long...and honestly, it's not a quick hat to make. But just take it one step at a time. It's fun to see it come together!

Ready to start?

Slouchy Ribbed Faux Cable Hat
With or Without Brim
Pattern by C. Beth
Use worsted weight (4) or bulky (5) yarn, approximately 4-5 ounces. Solid color recommended.

You may use this pattern to make hats to sell, as long as you're not mass-producing the hats. You may not sell the pattern itself or claim the design as your own. If you redistribute the pattern, please do so by referring people to this blog post or to the Ravelry.com link, or by distributing a printout with the pattern and a URL of this blog post. Thanks!


PART ONE: HAT BODY
I use an I (5.5 mm) hook.

The first 9 rounds are first given as a normal written pattern, and below that I've posted a chart showing those rounds. The chart helps me to visually keep track of what stitches I should be doing. It may help you too--but it's not written the way a normal crochet chart would be, so if it confuses you, just ignore it!

ROUND 1: Start with a Magic Adjustable Ring (great tutorial here.) CH-3 into ring (counts as DC), then 11 DC into ring. (12 stitches.) Join at top of CH-3.

For Round 2 through Round 21, start each round with a CH-2. This counts as a DC, and I'm going to call it a DC to make the pattern easier to read.

ROUND 2: 2 DC in each st. (24 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 3: 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st. Repeat around. (36 stitches.) Join.

Now in Round 4 we will be introducing FPDC (Front Post Double Crochet) stitches. The FPDC stitches create the ribbing in the body of the hat.

ROUND 4: DC in first st, FPDC in next st, increase by working both DC & FPDC in next st. Repeat this group of 4 stitches all the way around. (48 stitches.) Join.

This photo shows the first few stitches of Round 4.
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For Rounds 5-21, each FPDC stitch should be around an FPDC stitch from the previous round to create the ribbing.

ROUND 5: Work 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 9 stitches all the way around. (54 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 6: DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 10 stitches, all the way around. (60 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 7: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 11 stitches, all the way around. (66 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 8: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC. Repeat this group of 12 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 9: DC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 3 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

CHART SHOWING ROUNDS 1-9. Click to enlarge:
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ROUNDS 10 through 21: Repeat Row 9.

At this point your hat should look something like this:
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PART TWO: HAT BAND
For a "one size fits most women" hat, use a J (6 mm) hook (or 1 size larger than body hook.) For a large size women's hat, use a K (6.5 mm) hook (or 2 sizes larger than body hook.) For a small size women's hat, use an I (5.5 mm) hook (or same size as body hook.)

ROUND 22: CH-1 (counts as HDC.) HDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 23: CH-1 (Counts as BPHDC, Back Post Half Double Crochet.) Then 1 FPHDC (Front Post Half Double Crochet). Then alternate BPHDC/FPHDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 24 through 26: Repeat Round 23.

Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.


PART THREE: FAUX CABLE
I used an I (5.5 mm) hook.

The "cable" effect that goes up the body of the hat is not a true cable. It's just a pattern of stitches that are worked over the regular hat body. To make the photos more clear, I've used a contrasting color of yarn. However, you'll use the same yarn color as you used for the body of the hat. This is the end result we're working toward:

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From here on out, I'll refer to "ribs." These are the lines of FPDC stitches that make the hat ribbed.

The first half of each faux cable is stitched starting at the bottom of the hat, going toward the crown, on one rib ("Rib #1".) Then a rib is skipped ("Rib #2"), and the second half of the faux cable is stitched down the next rib ("Rib #3").

Three ribs...

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...and the same ribs, with labels.

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Okay, let's start the first faux cable! Find a rib to start with (Rib #1.) It helps to fold the hat right at that rib, with the rib at the "peak" of the fold. (See next photo.)

Because the FPDC stitches are elevated, it makes it easy to work the faux cable stitches into them. Instead of putting your hook through loops at the top of the previous round of stitching, as you usually do, you'll be putting your hook under the whole FPDC stitch. Work one stitch of the faux cable around one FPDC stitch.

First, join your yarn at the very bottom of the hat body, in the last FPDC stitch.


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Pull the yarn through, and ch-3. This counts as a TC.


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After the CH-3, working up Rib #1, complete the following stitches:
DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (19 stitches including CH-3.)
This creates a scalloped effect.

The first few stitches of this half of the faux cable:
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The first half of the faux cable:
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When you finish the last DC of the first half of the faux cable, CH-2. This counts as the first DC of the second half of the faux cable.


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Now, we're going to make our way over to Rib #3 for the second half of the faux cable.


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Slip stitch into Rib 3. Make sure you're slip stitching directly across from where you worked the last stitch in Rib 1. In other words, work into the same round of the hat body.


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We're ready to do the rest of the faux cable. Turn the hat around so that you can work into Rib 3.

Now that you've turned the hat around, your hook is at the "bottom" of the CH-2, and it should be at the top before you do the next stitch. Slip stitch into both chain stitches that you just completed--working your way to the top of the chain. (By the way, I've made the hat several times without doing this, and it looks fine. So if this is confusing to you, just skip this step.)


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You're going to work the same stitches as in the first half of the faux cable, but in opposite order. Each time you hit a "peak" of the scalloped pattern, you'll need to slip stitch into the same "peak" on the other half of the faux cable before continuing on. So...

Once you've slip stitched into each chain of the CH-2 (which counts as a DC), complete these stitches:
HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (then slip stitch into DC on first half of faux cable), HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into TC on first half of faux cable), DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into last FPDC of Rib #2, and slip stitch into top of CH-3 from first half of faux cable.)

Some photos to show you what the heck all this looks like:

Slip stitch into a DC on the first half of the faux cable:
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Slip stitch into Rib #2:
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Slip stitch into top of CH-3 from first half of faux cable:
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Completed faux cable...but yours will be much more subtle since you will use the same color of yarn as the body of the hat:

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Make sense? Now that your first faux cable is done, you can cut the yarn, pull it through, and work the ends in.

There are 24 ribs around the hat. Each faux cable uses three ribs. I do four faux cables. If you want to do four, skip three ribs entirely between each faux cable.

If you prefer to do six faux cables, just skip one rib between each faux cable.

Once your faux cables are done, you've got a very cute hat!


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You can stop here, or add a brim.


PART FOUR: OPTIONAL BRIM

I use an I (5.5 mm) hook.

Use two strands of yarn for brim. If you are using bulky-weight yarn, this is optional, but the brim will hold its form better with two strands.


Once again, to make the photos more clear, I've used a contrasting color of yarn. However, you'll use the same yarn color as you used for the body of the hat. I also only used one strand of yarn for the photos.

First, figure out where you want the front/center of your hat to be. I use the middle of one of the cables as my front/center. You may prefer to use a point halfway between two of the cables.

The first row of the hat will be 17 HDC stitches. I like to use stitch markers on either side of where these stitches will go, so I don't have to count repeatedly as I'm working. (If you don't have stitch markers, get some--they're cheap! Mine are huge, but smaller ones are available. Unlike most safety pins, they don't have a loop opposite of the clasp--those little loops can get snagged in your yarn.)


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With the hat upside down (as in the photo), you'll work from right to left. You'll be working around the posts of the stitches in the second to the last row of the hat band.

Join your yarn to the hat band. Leave a tail a few inches longer than usual--you'll need it later.


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Once the yarn is joined...

Row 1: CH-2 (Counts as HDC.) FPHDC (Front Post Half Double Crochet) into next 16 stitches of hat band. Slip stitch around the post of the next stitch of hat band. (17 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 2: First do a FPHDC into band right next to the slip stitch you just did. This counts as the first stitch of Row 2.


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Now you can turn and continue Row 2. You'll be working into Row 1. Don't work into the slip stitch at the end of Row 1, though. Start working in the last FPHDC of Row 1. (Follow this same pattern for subsequent rows too--don't work into the slip stitch!)


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Work these stitches: 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 13 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 1. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (22 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 3: First do a FPHDC right next to the slip stitch you just did. Then turn. Work into Row 2 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 18 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 2. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (27 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 4: First do a FPHDC right next to the slip stitch you just did. Then turn. Work into Row 3 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 21 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 3. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (34 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn yet.

Row 5: First do a FPHDC right next to the slip stitch you just did. Then turn. Work into Row 4 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 28 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 4. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (41 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Your brim should look like this, except it'll be the same color as your hat, and it'll be thicker since you'll use two strands of yarn.

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Cut the yarn, pull it through, and work in the end. Before working in the extra yarn from where you started the brim, you may want to use a bit of it to tack the edge (the beginning of Row 5) to the hat band. That way it will match the other side better.

Congratulations! You're done!


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When you've become an expert at the techniques in this hat, this short(er) version of the pattern will be easier to read:


Slouchy Ribbed Faux Cable Hat
With or Without Brim
Pattern by C. Beth
Use worsted weight (4) or bulky (5) yarn, approximately 4-5 ounces. Solid color recommended.

You may use this pattern to make hats to sell, as long as you're not mass-producing the hats. You may not sell the pattern itself or claim the design as your own. If you redistribute the pattern, please do so by referring people to this blog post or to the Ravelry.com link, or by distributing a printout with the pattern and a URL of this blog post. Thanks!


PART ONE: HAT BODY
I (5.5 mm) hook.

ROUND 1: Start with a Magic Adjustable Ring. CH-3 into ring (counts as DC), then 11 DC into ring. (12 stitches.) Join at top of CH-3.

For Round 2 through Round 21, start each round with a CH-2. This counts as a DC, and I'm going to call it a DC.

ROUND 2: 2 DC in each st. (24 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 3: 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st. Repeat around. (36 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 4: DC in first st, FPDC in next st, increase by working both DC & FPDC in next st. Repeat this group of 4 stitches all the way around. (48 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 5: Work 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 9 stitches all the way around. (54 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 6: DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 10 stitches, all the way around. (60 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 7: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 11 stitches, all the way around. (66 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 8: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC. Repeat this group of 12 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 9: DC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 3 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUNDS 10 through 21: Repeat Row 9.

PART TWO: HAT BAND
For a "one size fits most women" hat, use a J (6 mm) hook. For a large size women's hat, use a K (6.5 mm) hook. For a small size women's hat, use an I (5.5 mm) hook.

ROUND 22: CH-1 (counts as HDC.) HDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 23: CH-1 (Counts as BPHDC, Back Post Half Double Crochet.) Then 1 FPHDC (Front Post Half Double Crochet). Then alternate BPHDC/FPHDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join.

ROUND 24 through 26: Repeat Round 23.

Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.

PART THREE: FAUX CABLE
I (5.5 mm) hook.

Choose three ribs for your first faux cable.

Join yarn in the last FPDC stitch of Rib #1. Ch-3. This counts as a TC.

After the CH-3, working up Rib #1, complete the following stitches (one stitch in each FPDC of rib):
DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (19 stitches including CH-3.)

CH-2. This counts as the first DC of the second half of the faux cable.

Slip stitch into Rib 3 (2 Ribs above Rib 1), into the same round of the hat body as the DC you just did in Rib 1.

Turn hat.

Slip stitch into both chain stitches that you just completed--working your way to the top of the chain. Still counts as a DC. Working down Rib #3, complete the following stitches (one stitch in each FPDC of rib):

HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (then slip stitch into DC on first half of faux cable), HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into TC on first half of faux cable), DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC (then slip stitch into last FPDC of Rib #2, and slip stitch into top of CH-3 from first half of faux cable.)

Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.

Complete the rest of the faux cables. To do four faux cables: Skip three ribs between each faux cable. To do six faux cables, skip one rib between each faux cable.

PART FOUR: OPTIONAL BRIM

I (5.5 mm) hook.

Use two strands of yarn for brim. If you are using bulky-weight yarn, this is optional, but the brim will hold its form better with two strands.


Use stitch markers on hat band to mark where first 17 stitches of brim will be. Holding hat upside down, you will work from right to left in the second to last row of the hat band.

Join your yarn to the hat band. Leave a tail a few inches longer than usual.

Row 1: CH-2 (Counts as HDC.) FPHDC into next 16 stitches of hat band. Slip stitch around the post of the next stitch of hat band. (17 HDC + 1 slip stitch.) DON'T turn.

Row 2: FPHDC into band next to the slip stitch you just did. This counts as the first stitch of Row 2. Turn. Work these stitches into Row 1 (SKIPPING slip stitch, here and throughout): 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 13 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (22 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Row 3: FPHDC next to slip stitch. Turn. Work into Row 2 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 18 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 2 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 2. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (27 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Row 4: FPHDC next to slip stitch. Turn. Work into Row 3 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 21 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 3. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (34 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Row 5: First do a FPHDC next to slip stitch. Turn. Work into Row 4 of brim: 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. 1 HDC into each of the next 28 stitches. 2 HDC into each of the next 3 stitches. Now you should have reached the beginning of Row 4. Slip stitch around the post of the next open stitch in the hat band. (41 HDC + 1 slip stitch.)

Cut the yarn, pull it through, and work in the end. Before working in the extra yarn from where you started the brim, you may want to use a bit of it to tack the edge (the beginning of Row 5) to the hat band.

17 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful pattern! You are so talented! and very generous for sharing your talent :) I cant wait to try this hat....I hope I can do it justice!

C. Beth said...

What a very sweet comment, Anonymous...made my night. :) Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions about the pattern.]

Kirsten W. said...

This is so cute! Thanks for sharing the thorough directions and photos! I'm going to have to give it a try.

Anonymous said...

I too think your hat is well done, enjoyed that use of the texture of the caps.

DAFemme71 said...

I love this pattern. Thanks for sharing. I'm trying to perfect my brim and thought his would be a great addition to my favorites.

I do have a question... for brim tutorial, is only the first row and last/first stitch FPHDC? It's a little confusing as it seems that HDC and FPDC are use interchangeably.

Thanks

C. Beth said...

DAFemme71--Glad it's helpful!

Yes, the FPHDC stitches on the brim are the stitches that attach the brim to the band of the hat. Each time you are working a brim stitch into the hat band, (attaching brim to band), use FPHDC. When you are just working brim stitches into previous brim stitches, use HDC stitches.

Hope that helps....

DAFemme71 said...

Thank you so much for responding. I don't think my first attempt turned out so well. The brim wraps around the side too much.

I used just your brim tutorial on my own hat (simple HDC beanie) so the sizing may have been off. Will definitely be taking another stab at it.

Thanks again!!!

Anonymous said...

I so love this hat and tried to make it. I was successful but the hat was too big. I used an I hook. I want to crochet this hat again ... do you think it will be ok if I use a G or H hook?

Anonymous said...

This hat is adorable and the tutorial is excellent. I made one for my sister...now I have to make one for myself as well. Thanks for posting.

C. Beth said...

Anonymous from 11/8... I'm so sorry I just now saw your question. I think switching to a smaller hook size is a great idea. And if you need to, you can work some decreases in the first row of the band, to make it even smaller.

niccupp said...

I love this design! I am going to try to make one for my sister-in-law before Christmas. Thank you for allowing us to sell completed items, too! Free patterns helped me start my business just a few months ago. :)

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the pattern! Just finished first hat without brim or cable and I love it!!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for this! I made one with a brim, no cabling, and modified it a bit with a ponytail hole -- for use as a running hat this winter. You have no idea how helpful this pattern is! I remember seeing your pattern on pinterest, when I was googling. Thanks again!

Keri Houle said...

This hat is great! I made one for myself but it was a little too big, so I switched to an H hook and it came out perfect. Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Thank you for this amazing pattern. Your kids are very cute. :)

Chrissy Wilson said...

I love this hat... Absolutely love it, however, I am not able to figure out the first row with the fpdc i know i how to d othis, but i dont understand the 4 stitch combo i either get way to many sts in the row or too few. :( i wish there was a video to this!

Anonymous said...

thank you very much, its so kind of you to share this with others